2Wheeltips

Keep the shiny side up!

Be prepared for motorists to do the wrong thing....and, if at all possible, have an escape route pre-planned!

Assume that all the cagers are out to kill you!

Take the Basic Rider Course through your local Motorcycle Safety Foundation to help build a firm foundation for motorcycle skills.

hi, safety first

i agree, must pay attention at all tmes.you never know what will happen at the last moment.

Never tail gate trucks. You can not see around them and they kick up debris all the time.

Don't ever put Armorall on your motorcycle tires!

Perform a TCLOCS inspection on your bike before riding it EVERY time you ride.

When turning off your bike, always hit the engine cut off first, then turn the key to the off position.

If you ride so close that you can't see a truck's mirrors, the driver can't see you.

Carol said don't put Armorall on your tires - never put it on your seat either unless you want to slide around.

Learn where the fuel petcock is and what position it's in without having to take your eyes off the road and looking down to try and find it. Feel for it when you're just sitting on the bike. learn where it is and practice reaching for it without looking. If you ever run out of fuel while riding and the engine starts to sputter and you realize what's happening, you should be able to switch it from the RUN position into RESERVE without stopping on the side of the road, never missing a beat. It should be automatic to be able to do this. And don't forget to switch it back to RUN when you fill up the bike.

A couple more tips came to mind today when I went out for a ride - for you newbies as well as the seasoned riders (but you guys know these already).

1.) If you have to park on a hill, keep the front end up. Even in gear the bike can roll. If it rolls forward downhill, the sidestand may fold up and the bike will go over. Parking facing uphill avoids this. You also should have a strap of velcro or something similar to apply to the front brake and lock it, also helping to avoid rolling even if in gear. (This also is good for a bike on a stand with the rear wheel off the ground, to keep it from rolling forward.) Or put a chock under a tire. Just don't forget to remove them when you want to leave.

2.)And a corollary - if you pull into a parking space on level ground, back in with the front end aimed out so you don't get creamed by a car while trying to duck-walk the bike backwards to get back out to the street or lane to drive away. You may not be able to see the car coming when you are concentrating on pushing the bike out of the space. If you have to pull into a space on a hill, then you have to decide which way to go but remember it's not easy to push a bike in reverse up a hill and you may not find anyone to help you, or you may be too embarrased to ask. Still better to put it in backwards and apply the brake or chock the wheel so it doesn't roll and you can leave safely.

3.) For those of you who park your bike and lock the front fork, always remember to unlock it so you can turn the bars before you take off, otherwise you're in for a nasty surprise when you try and drive away and the bike goes down on the left side.

4.) After buying new tires, take it real easy for the first 100 miles or so, to get rid of the mold release coating and other chemicals on the tread and to wear the tires a little so they can generate all their intended grip.

5.) Carry with you something to put under the side stand when you park on a soft surface, like on sand, dirt, or even pavement on a hot day. The end of the stand may dig a little hole in the surface and can slip and the bike falls over. It can be something real simple, like a wall switch plate or similar (which costs next to nothing), or even a flattened soda or beer can. Don't use something made of plastic - it's usually too slippery.

I can't think of any more now, but I sure there are innumerable pearls others can think of and add here.

And here's a safety tip for those of you with lace-up boots. After you double tie the laces (like a little kid's sneakers), tuck the ends of the laces and loops into the top of the boots or your socks to prevent them from flying loose and getting caught in the chain or belt, or even the spokes of the wheel. It has been know to happen and can lead to disastrous results.

For those riding in the winter, and you know who you are, look out for those icy spots. What looks like water may not be....especially in the mornings. Also it takes a bit longer for the tires to warm up so take it nice and slow when heading out on those cold days.

As a followup on Tony B's post, and an explanation-

Cold weather safety

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I first read this post on another forum; it was posted originally on a police bikers forum.

By Lt. L.P. Walker

This is a notice to all motor officers, and especially those who may not have experienced much cold-weather riding. Motorcycle tires and pavement interact differently at colder temperatures giving a rider less traction than he would have in warmer weather. It’s good to remember that riding in cold weather is roughly the same as riding in wet weather.

Colder temperatures affect the rubber compounds in motorcycle tires by making them more rigid and less flexible than they are in warmer weather. This means that the tire has a weaker grip on the roadway surface. Of course the center part of the tire will heat up after a few minutes of riding and give more adhesion, but the edges of the tire that do not contact the surface during normal straight-ahead riding remain colder than the rest of the tire. During tight turns, these cold edges contact the pavement and can lose traction against the cold pavement and cause a front wheel slip that can be disastrous to the rider. In temperatures in the 30’s and below, this becomes much more pronounced.

It’s good to remember that cold tires against cold pavement can cause a situation similar to riding on wet pavement. So treat colder weather the same as you would wet weather, and remember to ride safe.

excellent point!!!

Again, I am posting this in a second place here on 2wheeltips just to get exposure to this so members see it .

Also posted under cold/winter gear but this is important, so now it's here too so it gets seen:

Cold weather riding - check your tire pressure

For those of you braving the cold and frigid wind chills with all your heated gear and multiple layers on, don't forget to check your tire pressures as the temp drops. You may be riding on 20# or less when the temps drop down to the 40's or below and although you may think a softer tire will grip the cold road surface better, that's not the case. It also may lead to wiggly steering with the front tire low, breakouts of the rear, and will lead to earlier wear. Most bikes run about 29-30# for the front 32-33# for the rear - check your owner's manual, and fill up as necessary.

All great and invaluable tips.
Just a couple more:
Shady areas can be a disaster in waiting.
Same goes for leaves on the road.
That puddle that always forms under the over pass?

I ride alot in the country where there is very little traffic. That can be both a blessing and a curse as drivers develop very bad habits. Two of them are they habitually run STOP signs and short cut left turns across the right lane. I have almost been "creamed" twice at STOP signs where drivers have failed to STOP and if I would have pulled out expecting them to stop would not be writing this response today.

While riding in the country with very little traffic - watch out for DEER standing or running across the road. Usually there is more than one, and hitting one can certainly ruin your day. Don't get complacent on an empty open country road, watch out for these and other critters that may cross your path (I've seen wild boar, armadillos, vultures, in the middle of the road). Be especially aware of the blind turns where trees or brush etc, can block the view and be prepared for those obstacles in your way.

Most smaller bikes do not have a fuel gauge, but you do have an odometer. Learn how many miles you can ride before running out of fuel and having to switch to reserve. Maybe make it a rule to look at the odometer each time you get on and off the bike and top it up after maybe every 120-150 miles or so, depending on the size of your tank and the mpg you get. And don't forget to reset the odometer back to zero when you refill the tank, and if you're on reserve, set it back to run or you may be in for a little surprise when you are least expecing it.

Very good points....not to mention, after that amount of time, it's a good idea to stop and stretch and get some water into you too.