2Wheeltips

Anyone who has taken an MSF class knows that using front AND rear brake is the proper thing to do for maximum stopping power.
However, you will still hear some folks swear by – ironically – one over the other; with both Front-Brake or Rear-Brake advocates taking an even share of the market.

There have been three reasons (that I’ve been able to identify) as to why are people so hell-bent on picking one over the other. Here is what they are.

First.
Most of us have a bad childhood memory of laying too heavy on the front brake on our bicycles and flying (or almost flying) over the handle bars. This taught us never to use the front brake. These people grew up advocating using only rear brake on their motorcycles.
Motorcycle however, has shock absorbents on the front wheel which results in the front side of the motorcycle “sinking” into the ground. As long as your front wheel is not locked for more then a second, your ass will remain firmly planted on the seat.

Second.
The experts - and by that I mean professional motorcycle racers – advocate the use of the front brake only. After all, aren’t these guys the professionals and wouldn’t they know what brake is the best?

Turns out, not necessarily.

Using front brake during a motorcycle race is –in fact – the right thing to do, for them.
This is because they are flying at 150+ mph on these really light bikes and hitting the back brake is pointless since the back of the bike is quite literarily being lifted off the ground.
Since the back of the motorcycle is airborne it would be quite pointless for them to use a back brake. However, most of us are not riding at those speeds and most of us ride (statistically speaking anyways) heavy cruisers which means that when we brake both wheels will remain firmly planted on the ground.



Third.
Using both Front-Brake and Rear-Brake is appropriate only when the bike is straightened-out. This means that using front brake while your front wheel is turned (to the left or to the right) is likely to result in crash. Also, whenever you find yourself in a curve (at higher speeds – above 25mph – you will be counter steering) it’s a really good idea to lay off the front brake. 

However, if you find yourself making turns at lower speeds (under 25mph – and some would say under 15mph) it is quite OK and considered proper form to use the rear brake to stabilize your bike.

So as you can see the use of Front-Brake or Rear-Brake is dependant on circumstances, and what’s correct for some may not be correct for others. Using Front-Brake alone is ok for racers (or is it racists? lol) but for the rest of us its not so clear cut.


Also, don’t forget what you learned in your MSF class. Make sure you do all your braking (and shifting into lower gear) while your bike is straight-up and before you lay into the curve. Take the outside-inside-outside trajectory and accelerate while going through the bend.

Keep your throttle in the higher RPMs so that you have “speed on demand” if and when it’s needed.


Two articles in one day…I’m feeling creative today :-)
 

Most people getting into an MSF class have a pretty good idea of what kind of bike they want to ride after they get their license. I cant hope to change your mind about that, nor would I try; I do want to share some thoughts on what your first bike should (and should not) be and offer a point of view regarding the positives and negatives of whatever choice you decide to go with.

Let’s face it; your ride will most likely depend on who you are.

A college girl that needs a ride to school few block away from her dormitory will most likely opt for a moped or a small engine motorcycle; I would imagine a large touring motorcycle will not be on her shopping list.

Twenty-something year old male (if the stereotype holds true) will most likely be looking for a crotch-rocket of some sort.

A man in his 30s or 40s will be eyeing up that new cruiser no doubt.

So let’s examine some pros and cons to all of our choices.

First, we must think about how we are going to be using our bike.

If you live in a beach community, perhaps a tourist-destination or resort town, sans highways and fast-and-busy four-wheelers; having a small size engine to get you from point A to point B would suffice for most.

I started out on a moped then drove a 150cc egine bike which was sufficient for my age (late teens) and place (small town).
There was no highway-riding at this time so these smaller bikes were perfect.
Having a large cruiser or a touring bike would certainly be overkill in this environment. I could however see a nice sporty rocket come in handy on occasion.

These days I ride a middleweight cruiser. I wouldn’t even entertain the idea of riding anything smaller given the fact that I am sharing the road with those pesky fast-and-busy four-wheelers who insist on using our streets for their canned monstrosities :-p

They say loud pipes save lives and this has proven to be true on many occasions. Every time I am making a turn in a busy intersection I am preceded by my petulant exhaust system (clutch in – heavy on the throttle) which has alerted and awoke car-drivers at many a intersections.

We have all experienced a gust of wind on the highway at 50+ mph speeds. On lighter bikes, these can be concerning at least and devastating at most. Having a larger bike certainly helps.

And finally, there is a small matter of rice-burners. Many prefer these fast and fun bikes over the alternatives.

I’ve never owned one myself so I feel little out of place commenting, however, I will say that many folks, who have started out on these sporty-two-wheelers, eventually switch to a cruiser style motorcycle.

Dirt-bikes and dual-sport are clearly best suited for off-road riding and I wouldn’t recommend either for extended and regular highway consumption.

So in summary, I would say the following.

Smaller bikes for in-city, local, non-highway riding.
Middleweights (at least) for highways.
Touring for cross-country.
Speedsters for the impatient ones.
All others (dirt-bikes and dual sport) should be used as intended. i.e off-road, non-highway.

In conclusion, buy the bike for the type of riding you do most.

Final word.

In my observation, I find that young men and women are hesitant to ride middleweight or heavy cruisers. Also, new riders are intimidated by these for (I imagine) same reasons.
All I can say is that cruisers are your best bet for highway riding and if the bike seems too big, too loud, or too powerful for you to handle it, believe me when I say that in no time what so ever you will be controlling that metal steed with precision accuracy. Especially if you decide to take a Ride Like a Pro class. Also, many cruisers are made “low” so that even if you are on the short side, you will be able to reach the ground (a comforting thought for most). Check out Honda Shadows to see what I mean.

Hope this helps...Seacrest out.

Lots of motorcycle shops profit every spring from motorcycle owners' failure to properly prepare their machines for a season of inactivity so don’t be one of the suckers. This is the must-know information. All fat has been trimmed away. Misguided notions and myths have been omitted for brevity.

1. Stabilize the fuel
   1. Modern unleaded fuel only has a shelf life of 3-4 weeks before it begins to deteriorate.
   2. Empty gas tanks will draw moisture and will rust while sitting. Make sure the tank is filled up and treated with a fuel stabilizer.
   3. Add the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer (Sta-Bil or Seafoam; make sure you follow recommended dosage for your tank exactly) to a full tank of fuel, then run the engine for at least 15 minutes to work the stabilized fuel throughout the engine.
   4. If you are riding to a gas station to fill the tank, put the stabilzer in before you add gas. The turbulence of the incoming fuel and the ride home will help to mix it.

1. Change your oil
   1. Residual fuel and contaminants in the oil can oxidize during prolonged storage or inactivity. Changing your oil now removes all the sludge and dirt that would otherwise start to deteriorate. In addition, changing oil now guarantees fresh lubrication when it comes time to remove the bike from storage.
   2. Use a quality oil that you would normally drive with. I recommend synthetics which will survive much longer into next year's riding season.
   3. Run the engine a few minutes to disburse the oil through the engine.

 

 

1. Prepare the Battery
   1. Lead-acid batteries should be kept under a constant charge in order to prolong their life.
   2. Attach a Battery Tender that won't overcharge your battery. A trickle charger may be used but must not be run for more than a half-hour each day. This could be accomplished using an appliance timer.
   3. If your motorcycle will be stored where freezing temperatures are likely, remove the battery from the bike and place in a warm dry place. The battery should be kept charged regardless.

 

 

1. Clean and Lubricate
   1. Dirt, sand, and road salts will begin to corrode and damage metal surfaces if left during storage. Give your bike a good cleaning before putting her to sleep for the winter.
   2. Lubricate all moving parts such as cables and use a metal protectant spray on the underside of the frame and drivetrain. This will combat any rust on areas exposed from pitting or scratches.
   3. NEVER use WD-40 on your motorcycle

1. Check your Tires
   1. Make sure your tires are properly inflated. If you have a compressor then deflate your tires first to expel any moisture, then inflate with clean compressed air. You should repeat this step before riding again in the spring.
   2. If possible, elevate your motorcycle so both tires are not under load. This is especially important if the bike will be stored in freezing conditions. Make sure your bike is secure. Motorcycle lifts with bottle jacks have been known to fail when left under prolonged load.

 

 

 

1. Cover your motorcycle
   1. Even when stored inside, your bike should be covered while stored. Use a cover that can breath and not a plastic tarp.
   2. Moisture should not be allowed to become trapped under the cover on your bike's metal surfaces.
   3. If your storage is in a barn or similar place, cover the exhaust's to prevent any unwanted creatures from making a winter den. Place plastic bags over the intake to keep moisture out.

 

 

There are a hundred more suggestions out there (filling the tires with nitrogen, etc.), but for the most part these steps will ensure your investment gets a safe winter's rest. Once stored, resist the temptation of periodically starting the engine, or at least until you are ready to drain the stabilized fuel and start riding again.